Sunday Ragù

1.Pulse tomatoes with juice (1 can at a time) in a blender until almost smooth.

2.Heat oil in a wide 10- to 12-quart heavy pot over medium-high heat until it shimmers, then sauté onion until golden, about 6 minutes. Add garlic and sauté 1 minute.

3.Add tomato purée, bay leaf, and 1/2 teaspoon salt and simmer, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until thickened, 40 to 45 minutes. Discard bay leaf.

4.Stir together garlic, parsley, cheese, and pancetta.

5.Pound top round slices, one at a time, to 1/8-inch thick between 2 sheets of plastic wrap with a rolling pin or meat pounder. Spoon parsley mixture evenly over beef cutlets (about 3 tablespoons each). Starting with a short side, roll up cutlets and tie at each end with string to make braciole.

6.Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a 12-inch heavy skillet over medium heat until it shimmers. Season braciole with 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper (total) and brown well in 2 batches, turning, about 6 minutes per batch. Transfer to a large shallow pan.

7.Add 2 tablespoons oil to skillet and brown sausage in 2 batches, turning, about 5 minutes per batch. Transfer to pan.

8.Pat pork shoulder dry and season with 1/4 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Add 2 tablespoons oil to skillet and brown pork all over, about 5 minutes. Transfer to pan.

9.Pat pork ribs dry and season with 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Add 2 tablespoons oil to skillet and brown ribs well in 2 batches, turning, about 6 minutes per batch. Transfer to pan.

10.Return sauce to a simmer and carefully add all meats and juices. Simmer, partially covered, gently stirring occasionally, until all meats are tender, about 2 1/4 hours.

11.Transfer meats with tongs to a large platter. Serve with fettuccine and remaining sauce.