Pasta alla gricia with kale

1.Fill a large pan or flameproof casserole dish with water, generously season with salt until it tastes like the sea, and bring to a vigorous boil. Add the pasta and cook, for four minutes less than the package instructions, about seven minutes. The pasta should be a little too tough to bite through.

2.Reserve 250ml of pasta water, then drain into a colander in the sink and immediately drizzle with olive oil, using tongs or a wooden spoon to coat the noodles so they don’t stick together. Leave in the sink.

3.Wipe out the pan, then, over medium heat, add one tablespoon of the oil and the guanciale and cook, stirring occasionally, until most of the fat is rendered and the pieces are brown, about five minutes.

4.Add the kale and some freshly ground black pepper and cook, stirring, until the kale wilts and starts to brown in spots, about another three to four minutes.

5.Reduce the heat to low, then add the pasta, reserved water and cheese into the pan, stirring vigorously, until the pasta is coated with this thick, impromptu cheese sauce and is a creamy colour with little black specks that are clinging to the pasta, about two to three minutes more.

6.If the pasta seems dry at any point, add in one tablespoon of warm water at a time.

7.Season generously with pepper. Serve immediately.