Lamb giouvetsi (Greek stew)

1.Heat 2 tbsp of the olive oil in a large casserole and brown 1kg lamb shoulder (cut into 1½-2cm chunks) in batches. You want to get a good colour all over. When each batch has browned remove it with a slotted spoon to a bowl.

2.Add the remaining 1 tbsp of olive oil to the casserole and sauté 2 sliced onions – seasoning them with salt – until they’re soft and translucent. Stir in 1 diced celery stalk, 2 diced carrots, 3 finely chopped garlic cloves, 1 tsp dried oregano and the chopped leaves from 4 thyme sprigs. Grate over some nutmeg, add 2 tsp tomato purée and stir everything around. Pour on 400ml white wine, bring to the boil so it starts to bubble and reduce a little, then add 1 x 400g tin chopped tomatoes and 2 bay leaves. Put the lamb back in the casserole, together with any juices. Season and add 800ml lamb stock or water. Bring to just under the boil, then turn the heat down low, cover the pan and cook, on the lowest heat, for 2 hours. Stir it every so often and add water if you need to. At the end of the cooking time, let the lamb cool, and put it in the fridge.

3.Before you want to serve, bring the meat out of the fridge for an hour. Heat the casserole until it’s bubbling and stir in 400g orzo. If there isn’t enough liquid to cover the pasta, add some water. Cook the dish for 20 minutes. By this time the orzo should be tender and will have absorbed the flavours. The dish should be quite thick, not too soupy. Serve in pasta bowls and scatter some grated Greek kefalotyri or pecorino cheese on the top, with more on the side.